Tuesday, May 26, 2015

How to make a quilt without knowing what you're doing



Last weekend, I decided I wanted to do something new. I had gotten some fabric from my mom in my Easter box and didn't really know what to do with it. Then I saw the most adorable baby skirt with a pattern so simple, even I should be able to make one. I dusted off my sewing machine and finished it in one day! I was so proud of myself and it turned out super cute. Best of all, it fit my little monster and now she has something to wear with her Blackhawks jersey while we watch "hah-eeee" together. I really had fun sewing and was looking forward to the next time I would get my machine out and work on something. As I was putting it away, I found a fat quarter bundle that I'd forgotten about for who knows how many months! I bought it with the intention of turning it into a quilt, but I've never made one before and really had no idea where to even start. A few months ago, I made a ruffle edged bubble blanket (I've also heard it called a biscuit quilt) with a friend of mine, but this was going to be completely different. The bubble quilt was done using a large square sewn to a smaller square, then joining them all together to form the quilt top and stuffing them, hand sewing the holes, attaching the ruffle edge and back, and turning the whole thing right-side out. This time I was going for a basic patchwork style quilt with a solid back and batting in between. I didn't have a pattern, just a general idea of how I wanted the quilt to look once it was finished. I had 5 different pieces of fabric, each with a different pattern in purple and white. I knew I didn't want too big or too small of pieces to work with, since sewing is still relatively new to me, and I also hate measuring and cutting. I decided to start with 4 inch squares. I did this because my ruler is 4 inches wide, so all I had to do was line up one side with the edge of the fabric and cut along the other side with my rotary cutter. Lazy quilting is the best! It didn't take long before I had 20 squares of each fabric and could start laying out how I wanted the pattern to go.


I wanted a nice pattern that wasn't the basic diagonal rows, so I went with a repeating pattern and offset each row by two. Also, early on I decided it was best to keep coffee near me at all times while working on this quilt. Coffee helps me human. When figuring out how I wanted to do my quilt, I just started out with a 5x5 square. I don't have a whole lot of table space, as I use the coffee table for most of my projects.


It took a little bit of math, but I finally figured out how big my quilt was going to be. I had 100 squares, but I didn't want a square quilt. I went with a 9x11 layout and had one extra square to save for a scrap project later on. I don't have anything in mind for it yet, but I hear there are tons of options out there; thanks Pinterest! Once I had my pattern set, getting my rows laid out was a breeze.


We have some four legged fiends in our home, so I grabbed some spare paper and labeled my rows in case a cat decided to *ahem* help me out. This also kept me from accidentally sewing too many squares per row since there was an obvious divider in between.



About half a cup of coffee in, I was getting super excited about my quilt and didn't want to stop. Baby girl was taking a longer nap than usual, so I took advantage and set out my first row to get ready to sew! I got my sewing machine out of the box, threaded my bobbin and got everything set up. Just as I was about to pick up the first two squares to make my first seam, I heard crying.


One year olds and sewing projects don't usually mix too well, so having a secure place to store my bits and pieces is an obvious must have. I stashed my stacks, downed the rest of my mommy juice and packed away my quilt until later. I was hoping for later that same day, but it was not to be. I figured I would just work on this quilt whenever I could. It was for my own baby girl, and she has no lack of blankets, so I was in no hurry.


The next day at nap time, I got out my first row and started sewing. I was in the zone! Quarter inch seams were getting finished in no time flat. I got the first four squares put together and was about to pick up square number five when I realized, to my absolute horror, it was the same as the first square. I have five patterns, so square number five shouldn't be the same as one I've done already - oh there it is. I checked my pattern picture hoping against hope that the circles were supposed to go next to the polka dots, even though I already knew that was not the case.


After searching through my sewing tote, I found my seam ripper and got to work. I'm sure there is an easy way to do this, I just don't know what that would be. It took several minutes and a little bit of cursing, stabbing myself with the pointy end (seriously, what is the point of that?) and nearly ripping my fabric several times instead of just the seam, but I was finally able to power through and separate my row where the missing piece was supposed to go.


A couple quick seams and the missing piece was neatly in place! It really didn't seem to me that I was off to a great start. I was basically on step three of my quilt and already had messed up. It did teach me a lesson, though. Pay very close attention to what you are doing! Just because you are trying to get as much done as possible while a certain someone is napping, doesn't mean you have to go so fast that you make mistakes every step of the way. Slow down, and just enjoy yourself.


Before I knew it, the first row was finished. I stretched it out a little bit and my seams looked even enough to get by. The first row of my bubble blanket was a curved mess and I had to take out and redo three different seams, so I counted this as a win. I was finally getting the hang of how coordinated you need to be to use a sewing machine. I mentioned before that I use the coffee table, but what I didn't say was that I sit on the floor while I sew. I'm sure seasoned sewists cringe at the thought of doing that, but it was how I learned to do it. Since I don't have leg space to use the pedal, I press it with my right hand and guide the fabric with my left. It works well enough at this point, though my legs do lose circulation and go numb after a while.


Lucky for me, little monster woke up before my legs could get too stuck in place this time. I knew if I hadn't made the mistake of missing a square and having to take out the seam where it was supposed to be, I probably could have finished two or three rows instead of just one, but I was also just glad that I was able to finish a whole row!


The next day, after the baby went down for the night, I was able to finish up all of my rows with no more huge mistakes. There were a couple times, when laying each finished row on top of the last, that I thought I had somehow severely mixed up my pattern and sewed the squares in the wrong order. However, it turned out that I was just laying them down backwards and a quick flip got them looking good again.


Once all eleven rows were complete, it was time to flatten my seams. I've seen a few different ways to do them online, but my favorite way is to press them open. Slide your finger in and separate the fabric and use the tip of your iron to press the sides out to lay them flat. One thing that no tutorial said was to only iron the fabric, not your fingers! Apparently you're supposed to get your finger out of the way before you get the iron too close. Who knew?


With the seams pressed open, getting the rows attached is a breeze. You don't have to worry about what direction your seams should go and can just easily get through each row. Before getting started on each row, I would check twice to make sure everything was facing the right direction. I got the whole quilt top finished fairly quickly, and was surprised to find that my sides were fairly even. Even though I was careful and went slow while sewing, I still expected there to be jagged edges everywhere.


The last step for the quilt top was to press open the new seams on the back. After I flipped it back over, I was so thrilled for how well it was turning out! The whole project seemed to be going so much faster than I had hoped it would, and I found myself ill-prepared. I didn't have any fabric for the back or binding, and had no batting for the middle layer. I was so glad when a friend from work told me about a huge Memorial Day sale at Joann Fabrics, and got my email with extra coupons later that same night! The next morning, baby girl and I set to pick out my missing pieces for the quilt. We ran into a couple SUPER helpful ladies who helped me figure out what size batting I should use and how much fabric I would want for the binding. Thank you for helping me out! I was so lost in there, and it was so busy so I felt bad asking for a lot of help from the people working. I picked out a yard of bumpy minky fabric for the backing, a couple white on white fat quarters for the binding, and a thin poly-fil batting for the inner layer.


I found several tutorials online for how to baste a quilt. Apparently this has nothing to do with cooking and squirting meat juice on it. Basting the quilt just means getting your layers to all lay flat with each other and having your fabrics all line up. I cut my backing to the exact measurements of my quilt top. I forgot the basic rule of everything my grandpa taught me. You know the one - measure twice, cut once. One end came out slightly shorter than the quilt top, but I figured it was close enough for me to make it work. It wasn't until I was looking up how to do the binding that I found a helpful hint for this. Cut the batting and backing fabric larger than your quilt top. That way, once you get your layers set and flat, you can cut off the excess and have nice neat edges to work with while you quilt. I know for next time at least.


For the actual basting, I flipped the quilt back over and started pinning everywhere. I went around the edge first, since my bottom piece wasn't quite the right size and I wanted to make sure my corners would match up. If you try your own quilt, I would recommend starting from the middle and working your way out. This helps to ensure that you don't end up with bubbles in your quilt anywhere. I didn't mind that I had some bunching in a couple rows. This is my first quilt, and I'm using it as a study in trial and error.


I found that pinning in the middle of each square helped to keep things as flat as possible. Since my backing fabric didn't meet up well, I got quite a bit of puckering on the top layer, but after several quick searches on google, I found that (hopefully) since I didn't pre-wash the fabrics that some of it should work itself straighter as the fabric shrinks a little bit in the wash. Keeping my fingers crossed.


As this is my first attempt at quilting and I have a tiny and cheap machine, I opted for the simplest version of quilting possible. I started quilting row by row, stitching in the seam from the quilt top as best as I could. Every once in a while, I would lose control of my sewing machine and panic for a few stitches before I managed to stop and get back on track. Having the extra layers was a bit cumbersome and awkward. I often noticed the fabric not being pulled through well. I think this has more to do with how heavy the quilt was becoming and that I was getting it caught on the edge of the table I was working on than any real reflection on my machine. As I finished each row, I took out the pins and rolled up the edge to help fit it under the arm of the sewing machine. This was a helpful tidbit I didn't know about until about three frustrating rows in, trying desperately to not sew the quilt to itself.


About halfway through the first side of quilting, I had to take a break to sit back and reflect on every decision in my life leading up to me taking on such a seemingly huge project. I briefly debated quitting completely and leaving the quilt partially done indefinitally.


I decided to bribe myself with a fresh cup of coffee once I finished the horizontal quilting. I took a deep breath and started powering through. Once I did finish, I liked the way the back looked with just straight lines going from side to side. I had originally wanted to quilt along every seam, but I didn't like the idea of having all the squares on the back side. Mixed in with how impossible the actual quilting turned out to feel, I said "I'm done" and went and got my well deserved coffee.


I found a great youtube video on how to do a quilt binding that explains it so well, even I felt confident going in to it! She uses a 2 1/2 inch binding. The pieces I used are from a fat quarter and are only 21 inches long, so I had to sew them on a diagonal seam and press them open. I did some math and figured out how many strips I would need, but didn't take into account how much of each strip would be taken up joining them, and also that I needed some overlap so there wasn't a gap once I had it sewn to the quilt. After I was almost ready to start sewing, I pinned it to the edge just to see, and found it fell about three inches short. It took a couple times of me sewing the new extra piece to the wrong side (an embarrassing mistake to make more than once) before I was all set and ready to begin.


I stayed up entirely too late into the morning so I could say I had finished attaching the binding to the back. I didn't notice that every tutorial shows people sewing the binding on the front side first. I suppose it doesn't really matter in the grand scheme of things, but it was just one more "ugh, really?" for my project. It didn't seem to make a real difference, so I left it as it was and said goodnight to my quilt. The part I was most nervous about was sewing the reverse side of the binding. I am no good at controlling my sewing machine when I have a full 1/4" of fabric to leave on the edge, and somehow I was supposed to sew right up against the edge of the binding on one side, and have it line up in the seam from where I sewed it on the other side. That sounded laughable, but when I got started in the morning, it went a lot easier than I thought it would. My husband had suggested sitting on the couch in front of the coffee table, instead of on the floor under it, so I could use both hands to guide the fabric through, and actually use my foot on the foot pedal. "It's not called a hand pedal" he pointed out. Thank goodness for husbands who look out for you!


And there you have it! My quilt is not the greatest one out there, but my baby girl loves it, and so do I. After so many ups and downs with my first quilt, I now have a better understanding of how it all works, and look forward to many more quilting projects in the future. I'm sure, as with crochet, the more time and effort you put in, the better your results will be and the more comfortable you'll be as well. I still see every mistake I made, but looking at the big picture of this quilt, I am so happy with the way it turned out.
















Sunday, May 17, 2015

Distractions Can Be The Best - Baby Blanket x2

I know I said I was going to be working on my Kon amigurumi as my next project, but lets just say I have CPADD (Crochet Project Attention Deficit Disorder).  Last weekend started out with the best of intentions. I planned to clean up, organize, and store, all of my yarn currently stashed in piles everywhere throughout the house. Once that was done, I was going to put my full attention on making my new pattern. Two things happened, and it is a week later and I  am no further than I was before!

My first setback came just minutes in to organizing my yarn leftovers. I came across a really cute group of colors that I thought would be great for another boy baby blanket. I was putting away the light blue and mint green I used in the last baby blanket when they just happened to settle in next to a gray and pale yellow. It was too perfect not to pull them out and start perusing Pinterest for inspiration. My favorite was one with a bobble stitch raised alphabet. I saw several different patterns but none that were exactly what I wanted, so I took a little from here and a little from there and started working up some squares.  I now have most of my letters done but still haven't decided how to finish it up - what shape and size to make the blanket. Since I'm in no real hurry to get this one done, I am just in a wing it sort of mood.



The second thing that distracted me actually started at the optometrist's office! When I walked in, there was an older woman who was showing the front desk girls some baby blankets she'd made. I was instantly in love! They were so light and fluffy but looked warm and snuggly at the same time. We got to talking about crochet and she asked if I made things. Before I had a chance to get a full sentence out, baby girl reached across me (nearly falling out of my arms) and grabbed her dragon from my diaper bag and held it up proudly exclaiming, "Na-nai!" as if to say "Momma made this for me! I know what you're talking about!" We laughed and she admitted she was impressed with my work. I asked her about the pattern she used and told her I'd never seen one exactly like it before. She said she's never seen the actual pattern, but that it had been passed down to her from her grandmother. I was in awe. She showed me step by step how it is worked and it sounded simple, but you know what they say about things being too good to be true... We exchanged phone numbers in case I ran into trouble with it, and I was on my way home to try it out! It was just as easy as she said!!! And so pretty too.



If you want to try it too, just use whatever yarn is your favorite and the corresponding hook. I use Hobby Lobby's I Love This Yarn for just about everything I do (except my scrap stuff that I pick up here and there from garage sales) and an I hook. I think she had said for the baby blanket you start with 119 chains, but when I did my sample sized square, it seemed to work out in multiples of 6 which would put it at 120.

Row 1: Start by doing 2 double crochet in the 4th chain from hook (the ch 3 then counts as your first double crochet stitch throughout). Skip the next two chains and single crochet in the third. Skip two again and do 5 double crochet into the next chain. Continue repeating between 5 double crochet and a single crochet every third stitch until you have three chains after the last single crochet. Make 3 double crochet in the last chain and turn.
Row 2: ch 1 and single crochet into the same stitch. Repeat *5 double crochet in back loop only of single crochet from previous row, single in both loops of 3rd double crochet of each cluster of 5* until you end with a single crochet in the top of the ch 3 at the end of the row.

Continue alternating rows 1 and 2 for desired length.  When you are finished, you can add a row of single crochet around the edge with three in each corner for a nice professional look, or go for a more elaborate border. Try out different color combinations for a completely different look! She had one that was done using a pastel ombre with yellow, pink, blue, green and purple that was a perfect baby blanket, and one with magenta, teal, black and royal blue that would have been perfect for an older child. I love the light and airy way the bumps work up. It ends up looking like a thermal blanket of sorts. I am excited to try out a full sized one soon, but I have so many partially finished projects already, I feel bad abandoning them to start yet another!

Saturday, May 2, 2015

Baby Boy Bobble Blanket - a study in trial and error and error and error......


I wish I could claim credit for this amazing blanket pattern, but unfortunately I cannot. I found this pattern on the back of my yarn label several weeks ago. I was instantly in love with it. The pattern is called "Bobbles And More Bobbles Afghan" and I found it on the I Love This Yarn medium weight yarn at Hobby Lobby (I have not been able to find it online and for that I greatly apologize). The picture for the pattern showed a peacock blue and deep tangerine, but I knew I wanted to use it for a baby blanket in boy colors. There are currently two lovely ladies at work who are pregnant, but too early along to know the sex. I already have two blankets for girls ready and waiting (since my little monster is a girl, I have way too many pinks, yellows and purples laying around and was looking for some stash busting blankets to whip up), but then I started thinking "What if one of them has a boy? What if they BOTH have boys? What if I don't have enough time to get blankets done once I find out?!?!" My mind was racing and I didn't know what to do. So I had taken to pinterest to find a pattern I liked that was simple enough that I could work on it while watching my little monster play. Several days later, I realized I wasn't getting anywhere and I was also not working on my own new patterns! Curse you pinterest!!! It wasn't until I got my white I Love This Yarn out for a small accent piece that I noticed the free pattern it had. The blanket was gorgeous and suddenly I was inspired! I ran out the next morning to Hobby Lobby and picked out the mint green and baby blue right away. I got the first 9 or 10 rows done that day and didn't want to stop! I brought the blanket with me to work and stitched on my breaks and lunch for two weeks straight. I was like a mad-woman trying to finish as quickly as possible!

As I was following the first few rows of the pattern, I noticed that something wasn't quite right. My blanket didn't match up with the blanket on the picture. I kept going over it several times. I even looked at the Hobby Lobby website to see if there was a place you could write in to tell them they have an error somewhere in their patterns! Lucky for me I gave up trying before I found it, as I did eventually figure out what was wrong: On the pattern, they list Color A, Color B, and Color C. They have you start with Color A. What they don't specify is that Color A is not the most prominent color for the pattern. So as I was working the first part of the blanket, my stripes of color were coming out small and the white was bigger (the opposite of how the picture shows it working). Once I had gotten the hang of how the pattern went (it was alternating one row of bobbles and one row of single stitch while changing colors every three rows) I wasn't reading the pattern row by row and was alternating colors based off of how the picture on the front looked. When I went back to the pattern, I found out what was wrong.I had finished the bobbles and was ready for the solid rows of single and double crochet stitches, but I had my white yarn ready to go - my "A" color. It wasn't until I saw the pattern said to use "B" for this section that I realized my error had started waaaaaay back with my first chain stitch. I let out a heavy sigh and decided I didn't care. I had already gotten through nearly 30 rows of "this doesn't look like the picture, but oh well" to go back and take it all out and start over. Plus, its not like it looked bad in the least! If anything, I liked how it was turning out better, since the color blocks in the middle of the pattern were much larger with just a couple rows of white in between. I liked the contrast it would make. I gave up on following the pattern to a T and used it more as just a guideline.


After working on the blanket for a couple weeks, I stopped midway and worked on my first amigurumi! For those of you who don't know (and don't feel bad, I was one of you up until last month), amigurumi is simply "a crocheted stuffed toy". My little monster has a Duckie that she snuggles with for naps and bedtime. If she doesn't have Duckie, there will be a baby meltdown, complete with sobbing and REAL tears. It's a whole big thing. We have no idea where my husband's parent's friends from another state got Duckie and can't find another one! So I was thinking, maybe if I make her a new toy and she watches me make it, that other stuffed animal can be just as special and maybe used as a replacement if Duckie is being washed or (heaven forbid) left behind somewhere again. I found the cutest free pattern for a baby dragon amigurumi from pinterest and left my baby blanket on the back burner. Baby girl LOVES Dragon now, but my plan sort of backfired. Instead of Dragon being a substitute for Duckie, we now have to bring TWO stuffed toys with us everywhere or a baby panic will happen. Sigh. We have also recently figured out that they have names, but not just how you'd think. Duckie is "Duckie" and Dragon is "Dago" and that's all well and good. She understands that and knows the difference between the two if you ask her for one or the other. She has decided, however, that the two stuffed toys collectively are named "Na-Nai" and should never be separated. Ever. "Monster" is a good nickname for my little bean.

Little baby monster in her Blackhawks
jersey with Na-Nai
Once the dragon was finished and I was entirely too proud of myself, it was time to get back to the baby blanket! I had finished the first section of bobbles with the thin rows of color and nearly all of the solid block of flat stitches of white. The rest of the white worked up super fast and even the rows of bobbles didn't seem as bad after the small tight stitches of the dragon. It is amazing what a little perspective will do for your crochet projects! I had one more oops before I started on the bobble block. I did a row of single crochet in green before I started on the bobbles, but after I looked back at the pattern I realized it wasn't supposed to be there. It is barely noticeable and I won't tell if you don't! ......... Oops.


The last thing I did wrong was to not pay attention to the finished size listed on the pattern. I suppose that may have actually been the very first thing I did wrong. For some reason, when it said 42" x "51" I imagined that being much smaller and baby blanket-y. When I had the last big color block finished, I held up the blanket to show my husband how it looked and told him it was just over half done. His eyes got big and he asked me "Didn't you say that was a baby blanket? That's gonna be HUGE!" I realized he was right. The dimensions were 36" x 30" as it was, and looked like a decent size to snuggle a baby in already. I know there are bigger baby blankets out there that work just fine, but to us, the smaller size just looked right how it was. I breathed a huge sigh of relief when I decided the blanket was done, and quickly stitched a row of single crochet around the edge to finish it up. I sewed in the couple loose ends that I hadn't stitched over already and Ta-Da! My blanket was done!


I wrote this post, not only as an excuse to show off another of my completed projects, but to encourage everyone who crochets to not worry if you find out you aren't following your pattern exactly. Especially when it comes to blankets and other similar things, it doesn't necessarily mean your project is ruined or you need to pull out row upon row of completed work. Most of the time, it means you have created your own unique pattern! Unless you think it really looks bad, you are probably going to be the only one to ever know there was a mess up. It's important to remember that in the end, all the trials and tribulations we go through don't matter when we look at the end result and see something beautiful. I love this blanket, mistakes and all, because it reminds me of how much fun I had making it. It reminds me of my baby girl grabbing the skein of yarn, and taking off giggling before I could grab her, and undoing almost a foot of stitches in the process. It reminds me of my husband laughing and rolling his eyes when I got my yarn out to work on while we watched a hockey game (I stitch faster when the game is stressful!). It reminds me of the girls I work with teasing me when I complained that I was hungry, because I had been working on it during break instead of eating. I know it seems silly, but this blanket has a part of me that will go with it. It was made with love and care, and whoever ends up with it (whether one of the girls at work has a boy, or it goes on my etsy shop) will appreciate the hard work that went into making it.

I suppose that's enough for now. Check back soon as I will be posting more crochet patterns and completed projects as they come. I'm currently working on several, but the one I'm most excited about is an amigurumi of Kon - a character from the anime "Bleach"!


Don't forget to come take a look at my etsy shop, Arya's Creations, and check out other items made by hand with love. Feel free to make special requests too, as I love taking on new challenges.

Thursday, April 23, 2015

Simple Bunny Lovey Blanket



One of my favorite projects so far is one I whipped up in just three days! I would have been finished in two, but my little tiny one decided she needed momma to play WITH her instead of just watching while cleaning. I was more than happy to oblige, but too tired to do much more work on my project after she went down for the night. I am only ever able to work on my crochet stuff while the little is asleep, but even then it is hard to find time with all the housework that needs to get done. Depending on how much time you have and how quick you crochet, this could even be a one day project: perfect for that last minute gift! The first day I starting out with a goal of finishing the bunny amigurumi for the main centerpiece. Day two was spent working on the blanket, but I ran out of energy before it was done. Day three was finishing the last row and a half on the blanket and attaching all of my pieces together. It came out perfect! If I were to do it again, I would make the bunny white instead of pink, so that the nose and mouth are more visible. Alas, I made the decision to do pink before I even considered how to do the face. I was also at a high risk of needing to purchase a complete storage unit for my yarn if I didn't start some stash-busting projects! For my lovey, I used I Love This Yarn acrylic yarn from Hobby Lobby. I really do love their yarn, too. It is easy to work with and stays so soft, even after washing several times.

The blanket pattern is very simple and can even work as a stand-alone. You can keep going with the pattern as big as you want and even make a full baby blanket instead of the lovey. Just keep adding extra rows. The bunny looks a lot more complicated than it really is, so even if you are new to crochet, please don't feel intimidated! I was amazed at how easy making stuffed toys actually was, once I finally got over my fear and tried one. I went all in and made a baby dragon for my baby girl as my first attempt. It is currently her second favorite stuffed toy (nothing will ever dethrone Duckie for the number one spot!) and I am so proud of myself for trying. It opened up a whole new world of crochet that I had been avoiding for over a year now.


Materials Needed:

Yarn:
Any worsted weight yarn will do. I used leftovers from other projects - about half a skein each of A and B
Color A (mine was pink)
Color B (white)
Black - small amount

Hooks:
G and I

Other:
Stitch marker - a small piece of scrap yarn works just fine for marking the end of each round
Yarn needle for sewing in ends and attaching pieces
Small amount of fiberfil (or any other stuffing)

Extra Notes:

  • While the crocheted blanket part is done row by row, the amigurumi is worked in the round as a spiral. Do not join at the end of each row - simply start working the first stitch of the next row in the first stitch of the row below.
  • You can use my stitch guide found here to clarify any stitches used throughout this pattern.


Pattern:


Bunny Head:

Row 1: With size G hook, magic circle to start and sc 6. Do not join - this pattern is worked in the round(6)
Row 2: 2sc in each (12)
Row 3: repeat *2sc, sc* (18)
Row 4: repeat *2sc, sc 2* (24)
Row 5: repeat *2sc, sc 3* (30)
Row 6: repeat *2sc, sc 4* (36)
Row 7: repeat *2sc, sc 5* (42)
Row 8: repeat *2sc, sc 13* (45)
Row 9-18: sc in each (45)
Row 19: repeat *scdec, sc 13* (42)
Row 20: repeat *scdec, sc 5* (36)
Row 21: repeat *scdec, sc 4* (30)
Row 22: repeat *scdec, sc 3* (24)
Row 23: repeat *scdec, sc 2* (18)
Row 24: repeat *scdec, sc* (12) Firmly pack fluff into the head after this row.
Row 25: scdec 6 times (6) Add extra fluff if needed.
Using your yarn needle, sew around the opening and pull tight to close. Fasten off tail.


Arms (make 2):

Row 1: Magic circle, sc 6 (6)
Row 2: 2sc in each (12)
Row 3: repeat *2sc, sc* (18)
Row 4: sc 18 (18)
Row 5: repeat *scdec, sc* (12)
Row 6-15: sc in each (12) Stuff arm after last row and make 6 sc across the opening. Leave a long tail for sewing limbs to head. Attach arms around row 21-22 (adjust as needed to your liking). I made mine so the arms angle toward the front by attaching them closer together than simply placing them on opposite sides, though that looks just as nice.


Ears (make 2):

Row 1:Magic circle, dc 6 (6)
Row 2: 2dc in each (12)
Row 3-7: dc in each (12) Lay ear flat and fold in half to form a slight pocket and stitch together to secure. Leave long tail for sewing. Attach ears to top of head, somewhere around row 3.


Eyes (make 2):

With black, ch 2, sc 6 in 2nd ch from hook. SS to join and leave a long tail for sewing. Attach eyes securely (especially if a tiny one will be enjoying this finished project as loose eyes can detach and become a choking hazard) just above the mid-point of the head.

Nose and mouth:

With your yarn needle and pink yarn, embroider an upside-down triangle in the center of the face for nose, going back and forth several times. This gives the nose a little extra texture as it bumps up from the rest of the face with each extra layer. Using long stitches, form a smile under the nose and join with a vertical stitch to connect.

If you use any color other than pink for the bunny
(I would recommend that!), the nose and mouth
will show up much better.



Blanket:

Using I hook and color A, ch 4. SS to form loop with furthest ch from hook.
Row 1: ch 3, 2dc, ch 2, *3dc, ch 2* 3 times. SS to top of ch 3.
Row 2: ch 4, *[sc, ch 2, sc] in corner, ch 3* 3 times, sc in corner, ch 2, ss to 1st ch of ch 4.
Row 3: ss into ch 3 space, ch 3, 2dc in same space, ch 1 *[3dc, ch 2, 3dc] in corner, ch 1, 3dc in each ch 3 space, ch 1* 3 times [3dc, ch 2, 3dc] in corner, ch 1, ss to top of ch 3.
Row 4: ch 4, sc in each ch 1 space, ch 3, [sc, ch 2, sc] in corner, ch 3, *[sc, ch 3] in each ch 1 space [ sc, ch 2, sc] in corner* 3 times. ss to 1st ch of ch 4 to join, switching to color B.
Row 5-15: Repeat as rows 3 and 4, alternating colors for odd numbered rows. You can continue this pattern to make the blanket as big or small as you like.
Row 16: With color B, ch 1, sc in same stitch and each stitch around, doing 3 sc in corner ch 2 spaces. ss to 1st sc, switching to color A.
Row 17: Repeat row 16, switching to color B at the end of the row.
Row 18: ch 1, sc in same stitch, skip 1, 5 dc in next, skip 1, *sc in next, skip 1, 5 dc in next, skip 1* around (7dc in corner stitches) ss to 1st sc. Fasten off and sew in ends.

Here is a more detailed look at the blanket


To attach the head to the blanket, first center the bottom of the head in the blanket's middle. You may find using locking stitch markers helps to ensure the head stays where you want it as you stitch around. Sew around the tops of your stitches from row 3 of the blanket and into the bottom of the head. Fasten off securely and enjoy!






As always, if you have questions, feel free to ask them. Don't forget to check out my Etsy Shop as well! I'm adding new items regularly, and am willing to make special orders, too! Special requests are always welcome!!











Stitch Guide

Crocheting is all very simple when you break it down to individual stitches. Each pattern is made up of a core set of stitches done in different combinations and ends with something beautiful. I use the same abbreviations throughout all of my patterns. Below, you will find a list of those abbreviations, what they stand for and how that stitch is done.



  • ch - chain. Yarn over and pull through loop on hook.
  • ss - slip stitch. Insert hook into both loops of stitch. Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.
  • sc - single crochet. Insert hook into both loops of stitch. Yarn over and pull through stitch, leaving two loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through both.
  • hdc - half double crochet. Yarn over and insert hook into both loops of stitch. Yarn over and pull through all three loops.
  • dc - double crochet. Yarn over and insert hook into both loops of stitch. Yarn over and pull through stitch, leaving three loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through two loops twice.
  • tc - treble crochet. Yarn over twice and insert hook into both loops of stitch. Yarn over and pull through stitch, leaving four loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through two loops three times.
  • sc2tog (scdec) - single crochet decrease. Insert hook into first stitch. Yarn over and pull through stitch. Insert hook into next stitch. Yarn over and pull through stitch. Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.
  • hdc2tog (hdcdec) - half double crochet decrease. Yarn over and insert hook into first stitch. Yarn over and pull through stitch. Yarn over and insert hook into next stitch. Yarn over and pull through stitch. Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.
  • dc2tog (dcdec) - double crochet decrease. Yarn over and insert hook into stitch. Yarn over and pull through stitch. Yarn over and pull through two loops, leaving two loops on hook. Yarn over and insert hook into next stitch. Yarn over and pull through stitch. Yarn over and pull through two loops. Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.
  • magic circle - Loop your yarn over your fingers twice, keeping the tail on the left and the working yarn on the right. Insert your hook into the loop and bring up a loop with your working yarn. Chain once and begin working your stitches, following your pattern. You can then pull the loose length of yarn tight to close the center hole of your work.



As always, if you have questions, feel free to ask them. Don't forget to check out my Etsy Shop as well! I'm adding new items regularly, and am willing to make special orders, too! Suggestions welcome!!

Monday, April 13, 2015

Toddler Hat W/Butterfly Applique

     While wandering around on pinterest, I saw an adorable crocheted hat with a butterfly on the front. Much to my dismay, when I tried to follow the link, there was no pattern attached so I was left to my own devices to come up with something that looked similar. I found an amazing pattern for the edging, but it was in Russian, so I'm really not sure I followed it correctly, but it gave the look I was hoping for. Then all I needed was a butterfly applique. Once it was all said and done, I couldn't believe how close to the original picture I got!


So here's the pattern:

Materials needed - Size I and F hooks and two colors of worsted weight yarn (A for main color, B for accent color)

Notes: The ch 3 to begin each round does not count as a stitch for the first 6 rows - this will help to hide the seam a little better and you won't get large gaps at the end of the rows. Once you begin the granny shells in the 7th row, the ch 3 becomes part of each shell and and also part of the total stitch count for each row.

For HAT:

Using I hook and color A, start with magic circle

Rnd 1: Ch 3, dc 10, join top of ch 3, pull tail to close circle (10 + ch3)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, 2dc in first dc, 2dc in each stitch around, join to top of ch 3 (20 + ch3)
Rnd 3: Ch 3, repeat *2 dc in next, dc in next* x10, join to top of ch 3 (30 + ch3)
Rnd 4: Ch 3, repeat *2 dc in next, dc in next 2* x10, join to top of ch 3 (40 + ch3)
Rnd 5: Ch 3, repeat *2 dc in next, dc in next 3* x10, join to top of ch 3 (50 + ch 3)
Rnd 6: Ch 3, 3dc in first dc, repeat *skip 2 stitches, 3dc in next* x16, join to top of 1st dc (51 + ch3)
Rnd 7-12: Ss across first shell to opening, ch 3, 2dc in same opening, 3dc in each opening around, join to top of ch3, fasten off color A(51)
Rnd 13: With color B, ch 2, hdc in same stitch, hdc in each stitch around, join to top of ch 2, switch colors, fasten off color B(51 + ch2)
Rnd 14: With color A, repeat *ch 1, pull up a tall loop through next 3 stitches (4 loops on hook) yo and pull through all, 5sc in gap made above stitches, sc in 3rd stitch from start (last stitch a loop was pulled up through)* around, join to 1st ch 1 to finish. Fasten off ends


For Butterfly:

Using F hook and color B, ch 5, join to 1st ch to form loop
Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as 1st dc) 2 dc, repeat *ch 2 dc 3* x7 (8 clusters) join to top of ch 3 with hdc
Rnd 2: (working in ch spaces) ch 3, 2dc, ch 3, 3 dc in same space, repeat *3 dc ch 3 3 dc* in each ch space around, ss to join to top of ch 3
Rnd 3: ch 1, sc in same space, 10 dc in next ch 3 space, repeat *sc in space between 3 dc, 10 dc in ch 3 space* around.
To Finish: insert hook into 1st sc, fold work in half and insert hook into opposite sc stitch as well, ss to join. Leave a very long tail to sew two sides together or fasten off to leave open. Ch about 15 stitches using color A, loop around the middle of the butterfly and tie the ends together to give the butterfly its body.


Baby girl LOVES her hat! It is one of three she
will actually leave on her head.
Attaching Butterfly: You can either use a few small stitches to hold the butterfly in place or sew around the entire outside to keep it closer to the hat.






As always, if you have questions, feel free to ask them. Don't forget to check out my Etsy Shop as well! I'm adding new items regularly, and am willing to make special orders, too! Suggestions welcome!!











Monday, January 26, 2015

Crocodile Stitch Crochet Baby Booties

Welcome to my first pattern!


I first saw a cute bootie like this when I started to get into crocheting more than just a single stitch blanket. However, every pattern I found was either extremely complicated for a baby bootie or too expensive for me to justify paying for it. So I was left to come up with my own pattern. After several months of putting it off, I was finally inspired to get it done this weekend! As this is my very first time making a pattern, I apologize if anything is off. I used several different patterns that I spliced together and it took several attempts at a few different ways of doing things to get it right. I believe I wrote down the final way that worked ;-) Good luck and I hope your booties come of just as cute as mine!


Materials Needed:

  • A small amount of yarn. I used I Love This Yarn acrylic, but any worsted weight yarn will do. I chose grey for the sole and alternated purple and black for the rest of the bootie, using up some leftovers from different projects. I have seen a gorgeous example similar to this using an ombre that came out looking like a dragonscale rainbow!
  • Size F/3.75mm hook (check gauge after row 3 and adjust hook size as needed)
  • Stitch markers are especially helpful when making the sole as the pattern is worked in the round and it is not always easy to keep track of where each row starts, but they are not necessary if you don't have any or are uncomfortable using them.


Stitches used:

  • ch - chain (yarn over, pull through loop on hook)
  • sc - single crochet (insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook)
  • hdc - half double crochet (yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch, yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook)
  • dc - double crochet (yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch, yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, yarn over and pull through the last two)
  • ss - slip stitch (insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through all)
  • sc2tog - single crochet two together (insert hook, yarn over and pull through stitch, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook)
  • hdc2tog - half double crochet two together (yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch, yarn over and insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook)
  • dc2tog - double crochet two together (yarn over and insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch, yarn over and pull through two loops, yarn over and insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch, yarn over and pull through two loops, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook)
  • Crocodile stitch - this is less of an individual stitch and more of a full technique. I will do my best to explain how this works in my pattern but you can learn how to do it in much greater detail HERE from Moogly. The main difference you will see is that their tutorial goes back and forth where my pattern will work around in a continuous circle.


Pattern as written should fit 9-12 month size foot.
Some babies have a little extra chub on their calves (I love me some baby chub!) and may not fit the 6 scale round. I have included an alteration to the pattern to include 8 scales. You can follow the instructions found within the *asterisks* for this starting in row 12. All pictures from row 12 on will show the 8 scale pattern.


Ch 14 to begin

Row 1: 2 hdc in second ch from hook, hdc in next 11, 6 hdc in last ch from hook. Working up other side of starting chain, hdc 11, 2 hdc in last ch. Do not join - continue working in the round until sole is finished. (32 stitches)

This is what you should have after row 1

Row 2: 2 sc in next 2, sc 8, hdc 3, 2 dc in next 6, hdc 3, sc 8, 2 sc in last 2. (42)

After the second row is worked.
Note how the last stitch is not in the middle of the heel.
That is exactly what is supposed to happen.
The pattern will work itself out in the next row - PROMISE!

Row 3: sc 2, 2 hdc in next 3, hdc 8, dc 3, repeat (2dc, dc) 6 times, dc 3, hdc 8, 2 hdc in next 3, sc 2 (54 + 2 to bring you to the middle of the heel)

Check your guage after this round. It should measure 4.75"
front to back now. If not, you may need to use a different
hook size.
Tada! Your sole is now finished! To match my project, you can cut your yarn and add your new color for the rest of the bootie or you can continue on in the same color. That's the beauty of crochet - even if you follow my pattern, your project doesn't have to look like mine!

If you are making the sole a different color from the rest
of the bootie, save yourself some trouble and make
two of them now. I find it easier to make sure the soles
end up the same size when they are done at the same time.
Row 4: (color 1) Working in back loops only, sc in each stitch around, ss to first sc. (54)

After first row starting the sides of the bootie. If switching
colors for each row, do so in the slip stitch. Insert hook
into first sc of the row, but pull up a loop of your second
color.
By working in the back loops only for this row, you will see a
ribbed edge form around the base of the sole and the sides
will begin to go up at a 90 degree angle.
Row 5: (color 2)  ch 1, sc in same stitch, sc in each stitch around, ss to first sc. (54)

With the second row after the sole added, the sides should
no longer want to lay flat.
Row 6: (color 1) repeat row 5 (54)

When you get to the last stitch of the row, make sure you are
not doing a sc into the slip stitch from the previous row or
your stitch count will be off for later rows.
Row 7: (color 2) repeat row 5 (54)

After the fourth row up the sides, we are ready to start using
decreases to start forming the toe. Check the stitch guide
at the top for instructions on how these work.
Row 8: (color 1) ch 1, sc in same stitch, sc in next 16, repeat (sc2tog, sc) 7 times, sc in next 16, ss to first sc (47)

This first row of single crochet together (sometimes also
called decreases) starts to form the curved part of the toe.
Row 9: (color 2) ch 1, sc in same stitch, sc in next 15, repeat (sc2tog, sc) 5 times, sc in next 16, ss to first sc (42)

Now that the toe is coming along, the next step is to continue
cinching it in and also to start shaping the heel to fit better
on the foot by doing a decrease at the start and finish of
the next two rows.
Row 10: (color 1) ch 1, sc in same stitch, sc2tog, sc 12, hdc2tog twice, dc2tog twice, hdc2tog twice, sc 12, sc2tog, sc in last, ss to first sc (34)

The toe is just about finished.
Row 11: (color 2) ch 1, sc in same stitch, sc2tog, sc 12, dc2tog twice, sc 12, sc2tog, sc in last, ss to first sc (30)

The boot is now done! Time to get started on the scales.
Row 12: (color 1) ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), dc in same space, ch 1 skip 2 stitches, dc in next, ch 1 skip 1 stitch, repeat (2 dc in next, ch 1 skip 2, dc in next, ch 1 skip 1) five times, ss to top of ch 3. Do not change colors (30)
Row 12*: (color 1) ch 3, dc in same space, ch 1 skip 1 stitch, dc in next, ch 1 skip 1 stitch, repeat (2 dc in next, ch 1 skip 1 stitch, dc in next, ch 1 skip 1 stitch) 3 times, 2 dc in next, ch 1 (do not skip), dc in next stitch, ch 1 skip 1, repeat (2 dc in next, ch 1 skip 1, dc, ch 1 skip 1) 3 times, ss to top of ch 2. Do not change colors (40)

This is the base row for the crocodile stitch
Row 13: (color 1) For this row, you will be working with the paired dc only and skipping the single dc stitches. Ch 3, working down the post of the ch 3 from the previous row 4 dc, ch 2 turn, 5 dc up post of second dc in pair from previous row, skip single dc, repeat (5 dc down post of first dc from pair, ch 2, turn, 5 dc up post of second dc from pair) 5 times *7 times*, ss to top of first ch3. Fasten off yarn. (6 scales, *8 scales*)

This is the beginning half of the scale going down the first of
the pair of dc from the previous row.


Turn the  work when you reach the bottom to make it
easier to go back up the other side of the scale.


This is what your work should look like after the first
full row of crocodile scales.

Row 14: (color 2) Attach yarn in any single dc from previous row. Ch 3 and dc in same stitch, ch 1, dc in space between set of 2 dc (this is the middle of the scale from the row below), ch 1, repeat (2 dc in single dc, ch 1, dc in space between set of 2 dc, ch 1) to end of row, ss to top of ch 3. Do not switch colors (30, *40*)


By putting a single dc in the double dc and a double dc
in the single dc from the previous row, you offset each
row of scales.
Row 15: (color 2) ch 3, 4 dc down first post of double dc set, ch 2, turn, 5 dc up second post of set, repeat (5 dc down first post of double dc set, ch 2, turn, 5 dc up second post of set) to end of row, ss to top of ch 3. Fasten off yarn (6 scales, *8 scales*)

It is a bit easier to see how the scales work in this lighter
color yarn.

Row 16-20: Repeat rows 14-15 twice alternating color 1 and 2 every two rows.

Once you have 4 rows of scales, your bootie is done!

Now make one more just like it and your baby will have the
cutest most stylish boots in town!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern as much as I have. Please feel free to leave a comment below if you have trouble following along, have any requests for future patterns or want to share a picture of your finished projects!

Thanks so much for visiting!


Don't forget to check out my Etsy Shop as well! I'm adding new items regularly, and am willing to make special orders, too! Suggestions welcome!!